December 5th, 2002
Posted in Reviews
Sweet Clouds Brought Down to Earth
GREAT homemade marshmallows are like plush, soft pillows that dissolve on your tongue as you bite down. Springy and airy without being rubbery, they are sophisticated sweets meant to be taken seriously, confections rather than candy…
Gushing about my find to a sweet-toothed friend, I learned of another handmade marshmallow worth seeking out. JoMart Chocolates, in Marine Park, Brooklyn, has been making marshmallows since 1946. Michael Rogak, the owner, still uses his father’s recipe. But he updates the plain vanillas with a thick coating of dark Belgian chocolate and flavorings like espresso, maple and caramel. In hot chocolate, the coating melts into something resembling a soft ganache and the marshmallow keeps its shape almost to the bottom of the cup.
Mr. Rogak said he has seen a renewed interest in marshmallows, possibly because they are fat free (at least without the chocolate coating). ”For the past few years, I’ve been selling about 50 percent more every year,” he said.